Sometimes a Rose isn’t a Rosé…

Rosé?

I have always loved Brut Rosés, that is “pink champagne” to the lowbrow folk. That prototypical rosé of Pinot Noir produced wherever great Pinots are made, but then subjected to the process that makes it into sparkling wine. The brighter and dryer the better if you ask me.

I always keep a few bottles of sparkling wine in the cellar and at least one chilled in the fridge to pop the cork and enjoy. No better way to initiate a celebration than popping a champagne cork! Even if it is just celebrating the end of a good day (as this one is this evening.)

I bought this bottle in the spring of 2016. It is a “2010 Cuvée Cima Coppola Rosé Corsa” from the Trento D.O.C. It’s been in the cellar for a while and for one reason or another was moved to the garage fridge at some point. Testa Rossa shouted to me from a distance suggesting we enjoy the sunset with a glass of wine. It was after all, the vernal equinox, and an unseasonably warm day so far. We recently had an anniversary, but had to cancel our plans due to the viral pandemic going on… so as I walked into the house to grab a bottle, I saw the champagne glasses we used at our wedding and a lightbulb went off…

I grabbed the flutes and the Brut Rosé and went into the backyard to set up for the sunset. Testa Rossa smiles when she walked to our setting and recognized immediately the significance of my gesture.

The wine was delightful, as was the sunset (and the company.) The only surprises were how very cold the ambient temps went after the sun went down and the total lack of “rosé” in our glasses. A little research lead me to the reason: this Prosecco was made with mostly Chardonnay, with some Pinot Noir (or as the Italians say “Pinot Nero”) so I guess technically it can be called a “rosé” but the French would say “Blanc de noirs” (White from black).

No matter. It was a nice vintage Prosecco at a very reasonable price ($20). Cheers!

Cellar Treasure: 2010 Oveja Negra Carignan.

About five years ago I bought a few bottles of this wine out of sheer curiosity (and likely some irresistible sales pitch found in an email from one of my dealers… er wine merchants.) As we all know, the Vinagoth loves Chilean wine… but Carignan? What’s Carignan? It’s an odd Spanish varietal more commonly found in cheap jug wine, or from some fanatical pre-Prohibition old-vine loving weirdos in Contra Costa or Sonoma Counties in California. The only other times I’ve even seen Carignan bottled on its own has been from those obscure NorCal weirdos.

Since these bottles were less than thirteen bucks, I grabbed three to round out an order into a full case to make my shipping free. What could possibly go wrong?

I remember that I opened one and drank it soon after that box arrived and it was just “okay”.

Last night I stumbled upon this one while searching for something Spanish in the cellar. Well, the grape is Spanish, but this wine is from Chile. Whatever works!

Opened it and it drank wonderfully. Mildly peppery on the nose, but smooth and supple in the mouth. Age has worked it’s miracles upon this juice, that’s for sure. There’s another bottle buried somewhere down there, so I’ll have to save it for some future dinner with a wine-snobby friend who’s likely never heard of this grape, nor drank anything under fifty bucks unless it was from Costco. Always fun to do that sort of thing.

Cellar Treasure: 2009 Tinto Figuero Ribera del Duero

A friend visited recently, whose grandparents came from Spain. They had fled Spain in the 1930s to escape from the revolution there, and thought they had found a safe haven in Cuba.

Well, we all know what happened next. His family fled Cuba to escape from that revolution, and ended up (like so many others) in Miami. My friend was born in Miami. We share a few things in common; a former employer, love for our region of the world, and a deep appreciation for Spanish wines.

Several years ago we made a bargain: he brings the steaks, and I’ll serve up the best Rioja he would ever taste, specifically my last bottle of 2001 Viña Olabarri Gran Reserva.

He was here a few nights ago, and we drank that, and a 1964 Rioja I’ve had in my cellar as well. It was a good night.

But as often happens with me once I’m in a groove, it’s hard to get out. Last night I was grilling a pepper-crusted pork tenderloin and was thinking of what I would pair it with from the cellar. I went to the wine cooler and dug around in the Spanish section and found a ten year old Ribera del Duero. Perfect!

I uncorked it and was immediately happy with the choice. Delicious and delightful! I’ve always said Spanish Tempranillos seem to really come into their own around ten years in. This one is no exception. Light nose. Wonderful ruby color. Amazing with the pork with it’s strong pepper flavor. Silky smooth mouthfeel from the wine, with a long oaky finish.

Looking at my notes I see that I purchased this as a single bottle about four years ago. I must have been the only one available, as it has a “CLEARANCE” sticker on it with a price tag of $21.98. Can’t beat that!

A Napa Valley wine of this quality would cost triple digit dollars.

I note that I have four bottles of a later vintage from the same bodegas in the cooler. They should be ready to go in a few years. Stay tuned…

Amazing Petite Sirah: 2009 Marietta, Alexander Valley

I bought two bottles of this wine many years ago. Paid around $15/bottle. One of the benefits of having an extensive cellar is forgetting/losing/ignoring items for a while. While that would fail miserably in any other foodstuff, with wine it often pays dividends.

From my notes I see that I drank one bottle in 2017, well over two years ago. I rated it four stars and spoke highly of its density, flavor, and overall deliciousness. Now, in the latter half of 2019 it is even better! It has lost a lot of its tannic edge, but gained an amazing amount of softness, and subtlety of the oak it was initially aged within. I opened the second of my two bottles two nights ago, and have enjoyed it over that time period. Nowhere along the way did it lose anything after uncorking.

This just serves to remind me what an underrated grape Petite Sirah is in today’s world. A Cabernet THIS GOOD would cost you ten times what I paid for this wine. Maybe more. Petite Sirah is California’s undiscovered gold mine. Perhaps long after I’m dead the world will wake up to this fact.

You heard it here first.

Best value Oregon Pinot Noir… ever. Bradley Vineyards Shea 2016

Full disclosure: I drink a LOT of Oregon Pinot Noirs. A LOT. I’ve likely rated close to 100 of them on my cellar tracking app, yet I rarely, if ever write about them here. Why? As I’ve often said, Pinot’s are like Porsches, they can be great, or they can be terrible, but they’re always expensive. The focus of this website is to find and share value priced wines. Well, this one is great, and it’s also very reasonably priced, which I find astounding.

It is a Broadley Vineyards 2016 Shea Vineyards Pinot Noir. I bought it online at The Wine Exchange last week for less than $25/bottle. This tastes better than several $40 Oregon Pinot’s I’ve tasted, and it fact punches at the $70/bottle weight class all day long.

Not sure if they have any left at that price, but give it a try and let me know what you think.

I have two more bottles after this one to savor and reflect on my good fortune with.

Missing the Merlot Mark: J. Bookwalter 2015 “Readers Blend” Merlot.

Bought this Merlot for $19.98, as you can see. It is a mostly Merlot blend, with 90% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. I’ve enjoyed a lot of great Bordeaux blends in my lifetime, including some amazing Grand Cru’s, and some of the New World’s best. I’ve also always had a soft spot in my heart for Merlot. Yes, it was over-produced in the nineties, and became something of a parody of itself for a while, at least until one throwaway joke in the movie “Sideways” sent sales into a nosedive. This was actually a good thing, as it left making Merlot to the folks that do it well, and passionately. Of course there is some great irony in the character of Miles in Sideways, and his most treasured bottle, but that is an Easter egg for all of you to discover… I’m not in the business of spoilers.

Merlot is indeed one of the noble grapes and a good Merlot is a wondrous thing to behold on one’s palette. A well-made Merlot is silky-smooth and supple, like sipping velvet or doeskin. It is worth your while to seek out a good Merlot now and then to remind yourself why it has earned its place among the greats.

This one though? Not that great. It is a GOOD WINE, but it is not a great Merlot, sadly. Not even a good one to be honest. Not really sure why, other than perhaps the 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. If I were to taste it blind I’d guess the blend to be opposite of what we have, with 90% Cabernet, and 10% Merlot.

I had it with a nice, perfectly medium-rare T-bone steak and some roasted sweet potatoes. As I was grilling I imagined how the flavors would all blend in my meal and experienced one of those wine-nerd record scratch moments when I tasted the wine at the table.

Oh well. As I said, not a bad wine, but not the Merlot experience I was looking forward to having.

A new varietal for me, Tannat.

Bought this bottle for $19.99. What a delight! Tannat is an old French grape varietal, but has taken hold in Uruguay, the next door neighbor of Argentina in South America. I’ve never tried this particular varietal before. Upon opening it wasn’t very impressive, with not much nose and not much in the mouth. But an hour later it is nirvana in a glass. Very Merlot-like, in that it was all oak, leather, and earthiness on the nose, and silky smooth and supple mouthfeel. Likely one of the best under-$20 wines I have tasted in a long, long time. It paired wonderfully with a filet mignon.

I highly recommend seeking out this wine. One of the better values I have ever encountered.

The Un-Bordeaux Bordeaux: Bouscat Caduce Bordeaux Superieur 2012

I bought this wine in 2017 for less than ten bucks a bottle. $9.98/bottle in fact. For some reason I haven’t touched any of my six bottles, until today.

Note to self, save the other five bottles for a sunny summer afternoon.

This is the most un-Bordeaux Bordeaux I have ever tasted. It drinks like a Rosé. Bright, acidic fruitiness. No oak at all. Mild tannins, and only in the finish.

It is like a bizarro-world Bordeaux.

I’m not sure who Jean Pierre Dubernard is, but I’m surprised he can walk around safely in daylight anywhere in France. Not that I’m not liking this wine, I just don’t know what his countrymen think of this juice and how different it is from their norm.

Like the CH Barbera from Lake County this is a red that drinks very un-red like. It is fruity and refreshing rather than dark, brooding and oaky. Again, I can appreciate that for what it is (I drink a lot of Rosé wines in the summer!) and I will plan on drinking these on summer evenings on the deck.

Barbera di Lake County: Cameron Hughes Lot 621

I could never be a sommelier. My nose just isn’t developed enough. I can usually zero in on a wine’s country of origin… at least with France, Italy, Spain, and the USA. And MAYBE New Zealand, if it is a Pinot Noir. I can almost always get down to a Varietal as well… provided it falls within the list over there in the sidebar—>

But that’s it. The only way I got to this point is drinking a metric shit-ton of wine.

BUT, I can claim one wine superpower, and that is knowing Lake County. One of the first wines I ever fell truly in love with is a Petite Sirah from Guenoc in Lake County, California. I’ve tried Cabernets, Petite Sirahs, Zins, blends, and now a Barbera from Lake County, and as per usual, I can feel that terroir in this wine as well.

Unlike all those other reds however, this one has a very different character overall. Lot 621 is a light, fruity, refreshing wine. It is the sort of wine that you would enjoy out on a deck on a hot summer day… sitting in the shade of an umbrella over some patio furniture. Sunglasses on. Surrounded by friends and maybe some light appetizers like a charcuterie board. Olives, cured meats, light cheeses.

But here I am, literally watching snow melt off my deck, drinking this little bit of summer. Go figure. This wine shipped to me as part of my CHWine Club Spring shipment last year priced at $13/bottle(!) I should have opened it and tried it then, and had I known, I would have bought several more bottles to share with friends on the deck last summer (instead of, or maybe in addition to, the case of mixed Rosés I did share with friends on the deck last summer!) But no, like the idiot I am, I failed to see it until tonight, when I went in search of something to pair with a pork tenderloin. As soon as I tasted it I went to the CHwine website and checked… Lot 621 SOLD OUT.

Oh well.

This wine is refreshing, and delightful. Very fruit-forward. It finishes well. I wish I had a case of it.

An Updated “About the Vinagoth”

I realized that I’ve been writing about wine here for over ten years. There have been long periods of silence in that decade, and a LOT of changes to how I buy and drink that wine. The silences have mostly been due to work and family situations. My wine buying and drinking habits have changed a lot around those themes as well.

When I started writing about wine in 2008, it was generally about wines that I bought in the grocery store, usually on the bottom bargain shelves, and my purpose was to find great values. Stuff that tasted good, and paired well with food, at or below a $20 price point.

Now, in 2019, I can’t even recall the last time I bought a wine at a grocery store. A work-related move in 2010 had me relocating to a very rural area, and losing my connection to a pretty damn good local grocery store with an excellent wine department. However I had started buying wine online (as noted here) and over time joined several wine clubs, especially with vintners I liked, and of course the Negociant Cameron Hughes. Many of the “vintners I liked” I have never even mentioned here because they have above the price point I started focusing upon. My wine collection grew into a proper cellar. I would only write about the “cheap” ones here.

Then, something else happened. The man that taught me about wine, my father, grew old, and eventually passed away. He left me a portion of his wine collection. On special occasions I pull out his old wines and share them with friends. These are great wines from Burgundy, Bordeaux, Piedmont, Rioja, Oregon, and Napa… going back to the early 1960s in some cases. It has been a privilege to taste them and they have helped me treasure his memory.

If you like my writing about wine, you might be able to find me on the Vivino. I’m in the top 400 reviewers in the USA, and some of the wines that have appeared here recently I have also covered there. Beyond that hint, it’s a treasure hunt.