Dusted Valley 2014 Cabernet Franc: Le Garçon Grand!

Big Boy Cabernet Franc

Life had me traveling abroad for a few weeks, so I indulged myself of local wines along the way. I didn’t bother to blog about them as they were universally outside of the low-price scope of this site. Suffice to say I was drinking Pinots, GSM’s and Nebbiolos almost exclusively for two straight weeks. I was unprepared for the shock of this wine… the first I chose to open upon my return home.

Clearly, there is a huge difference between Old World and New World wine styles.

After two weeks of savoring old world reds, most lovingly aged prior to even being sold (I seemed to be drinking mostly 2008-2011 vintages while there) my palette was becoming attuned to soft, earthy flavors.

Then I drank this big boy. Sure, the varietal is of Bordeaux origin, but this Columbia Valley Cabernet Franc is big, BIGGER, BIGGEST. It hit my mouth like a haymaker punch. Not in a bad way mind you… just a BIG one.

This Cabernet Franc is not cheap, weighing in around $40/bottle. But if you’re seeking a big wine for a big meal, this one will do the trick. I’ve got three more bottles (of 2013 & 2014 vintages) in the cellar and likely will let them rest a bit longer to see how they evolve.

Best Value Red of 2016/17: CH Lot 575, 2014 Red Blend, Red Mountain, Washington State

Only in America will you find a winemaker who will mix a Rhone varietal into a classic Bordeaux blend. America, Fuck Yeah!

This wine appeared in my autumn shipment mixed case from Cameron Hughes, and it was a revelation. After I tried it, I immediately ordered a full case of this wine. Big, tasty, and a usual home run from the Red Mountain AVA. As a winemaker once said on The Tasting Room, “if you see a wine from Red Mountain, just buy it. I promise it will be good.”

I’ve thoroughly enjoyed a few bottles so far, and plan to keep trying them every six or so months. I imagine they’ll only get better.

Best of all? You can buy them for $16 a bottle. I’ve also seen them on sale as low as $13.

Get some. I promise it will be good.

Speaking of Rioja: 2004 Viña Tondonia

I paid $36.98 for this 2004 Rioja about three weeks ago. Given that “a good Rioja” should be cellared a decade or so, it is nice to find one that is ready to drink after have been bottle-aged before purchase. After a some rest in the wine cooler I opened this one up to accompany dinner.

The nose was very “woody” with strong evidence of time in oak. On the palate the fruit came alive. A delightful wine certainly! Very different from my usual domestic stuff. One note however: I failed to finish the bottle and re-corked it and placed it in a cool place overnight. By the next night it was unrecognizable from the night before. Almost undrinkable. This is also very different than the younger domestics I usually drink, as they always seem to stretch a few nights pretty well.

“What’s the best/most expensive wine you have ever had?”

Unico

I used to like beer. I used to drink it a lot. But then the whole IPA thing started happening about a decade ago and quite frankly, got completely out of hand. Every craft brewer was trying to out-hop the next guy. I get it, I like spicyness quite a bit. In fact I often take the top off of the pepper shaker to pour the right amount of black pepper onto my salads without having to shake, shake, shake it like Michael J Fox at an onanism competition. But I also don’t eat black pepper with a spoon either. The IPA’s of the past few years have basically tasted like you’re eating a handful of dry hops. No thanks.

When you tell people, especially “craft beer snobs” (which seem to populate every corner of the country nowadays) that you don’t really drink much beer anymore, and really prefer wine, they scoff at you for a while, but eventually start poking and prodding around your liquid proclivities. Wine it seems is a mystery to a lot of people. They perceive it as haughty, elitist, or requiring of some special and deep knowledge. In reality the opposite is true. Just like beer, you just have to drink a lot of it to figure out what you like and what you don’t like.

I think it is the restaurant wine list that scares people away from wine. It is opaque, filled with code words, and oftentimes triple-digit prices. So they flee to the simple and inexpensive comforts of wheat, hops and barley.

From that comfort zone though, they have questions. The title of this article is one of the ones I hear most often. I love to relate the tale of these two wines:

At the high end we find Vega-Sicilia “Unico” from the 1962 vintage. A bit of searching around online reveals that a bottle from this vintage can still be purchased, but it will cost you:

Ouch!

I prefer not to relate the circumstances of my tasting of this wine, beyond the fact that it was an important family event. It was delicious. I am not possessed of a Master Sommelier certificate, but there are a few wines I can taste and tell you what they are with absolute accuracy. If I were ever to be given this wine in a bland tasting, I know I would recognize it again. It was both delicious AND unique.

I have tasted some likely similarly expensive wines, especially older Burgundies and Bordeauxs, but to my knowledge this Ribera del Duero is the most expensive bottle of wine I have personally tasted.

More interesting, and certainly more inline to the focus of this website I have tasted a wine that is within a hair’s breadth of the 1962 Unico in terms of overall flavor and quality, and it cost me less than $25. Yes, under twenty-five dollars for a wine that could stand right next to the most expensive wine I have ever tasted. That story is far more interesting to me…

2001 Vina Olabarri Reserva Rioja

I heard about this wine back in 2009 or so and bought two bottles for about $21.99 each. I cellared, and then quite frankly forgot all about them. Fast forward to late 2012. On New Years Eve I was home alone and had made a really nice roast beef. Looking for something special from the cellar to pair up with the meal, I pulled out the Olabarri and was blown away when I popped the cork. The aroma from the bottle was intoxicatingly complex. Hard for me to nail down the exact aromas, but it was akin to that unique sense from an old European sports car… well worn leather and wood. Truly one of the finest noses on a wine I have ever experienced. I often times don’t finish a wine with dinner, and have collected a few high-tech stoppers to preserve my wines over a few nights… but not that New Years Eve! I drank the entire bottle that night, savoring every sniff and sip of that amazing Rioja!

The next day I went back to the website where I had originally bought the wine from three and a half years before. They were sold out. Some googling unearthed a wine shop about a three hour’s drive away that had some available. I called them up on the phome and ordered a case. It was a couple of bucks morethan what I paid back in 2009, but still under $25. They held that case for me for close to a month before I was able to drive over and collect it. As I was walking out to my car with it, the guy told me “I think the word is out on that wine. Since you bought it I’ve had several more calls about it and my supply is going fast. Let me know if you want more.”

I drove home and after a couple of weeks I opened another bottle and thought to myself “What am I doing?…” and called that merchant again to ask how much he had left. “Six bottles” was the answer, and I bought them all on the spot.

Since then I have served this wine to several friends, and it receives universal acclaim. I have acquired several bottles of other vintages, but have yet to give them a try, as I still have a stockpile of the 2001s remaining.

Under $25, and tasting almost exactly the same as a $1300 wine from the early 1960s. Ponder that for a while.

Lowball Bordeaux Grand Cru: 2004 Chateau Lusseau Saint-Emilion

Like most folks, my buying habits have changed over the past decade. I can’t recall the last time I bought a bottle of wine in a store. I do most of my buying online these days. Most of my household goods are bought from Amazon. Tools, car parts, etc are sourced from online shops. All bought from my keyboard. My wine buying is 100% online these days. Partly because of the limited selection found in my local stores, but mostly because I can find better wine online at a better price. The only place I buy wines in person these days is at fine dining establishments. This is where I try new things and find wines I didn’t know about before. But the bulk of my wine collection has been purchased online via wine clubs and online retailers. One of these retailers I use a lot is “Wine Exchange.” I was introduced to them via a wine-focused podcast “The Tasting Room.” They appeared as a guest on the podcast likely a decade ago, when they were called “Best Wines Online”, and they showcased several wines that were all under $30 and all of them amazing. (One of which I ended up buying two and a half cases of, and frankly is one of the best wines I have ever tasted… I should write that one up for you!) I have bought a lot of wine from Wine Exchnage and am on their mailing list, which sends me bargains in email so often that I have to practice a lot of restraint not to buy everything they offer!

I love me some Bordeaux. Most of it is crazy expensive, but once in a while you stumble upon a bargain, and in this case it was a real win. In an email from Winex back in April of last year offering this Bordeaux for under twenty bucks a bottle. I grabbed two bottles. Two bottles is a pretty standard order for me (usually in a mixed half or full dozen) and I’ll drink one after a few weeks’ rest. If it is good, I’ll make a note to enjoy the second bottle at some future date. If it is REAL good, I’ll order more. In this case I ordered six more bottles.

Now I’m kicking myself for not buying several cases!

70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon makes up this garagiste estate blend. Don’t bother looking for it, as Winex bought the entire remaining output of the winery’s 2004 vintage, and sold it to their customers, myself included. Keep an eye on this source though. In fact Winex is selling futures of their 2015 vintage for $17.98. Not sure how it will compare to the 2004, especially after a decade of aging already behind the 2004, but might be worth having a go.

As for the 2004 specifically. Wow. Very old world flavor. Rich. Luscious, and earthy. Classic Saint-Emilion Bordeaux. I have tasted some astounding and expensive Saint-Emilions in my day and this one compares quite well at a tiny fraction of the price.

Two dramatically different Carmeneres: Canepa 2014 & Arenal 2012

The Bad: Canepa Reserva Famiglia 2014 Carmenere

No idea what this costs, as it was given to Testa Rossa as a gift. Some online research points to around $8.00 a bottle. I’m glad we didn’t pay anything for this because it was terrible. It had a harsh metallic edge on the taste right after opening. As you know, Carmenere is one of my favorite varietals, and rarely do I NOT like one. Note sure if this was a storage issue, or just not a very good wine, but this one was beyond help. Letting it breathe for a while, it mellowed a tiny bit, but still ended up being poured down the drain.

The Good: Arenal 2012 Carmenere

As you can see, this one cost me $8.98. Good cheap wine! After the disappointment of the Canepa I literally went to my cellar to find another Carmenere to taste, just to remind me what I liked about the stuff. I have a couple of high-dollar Carms from Montes (Purple Angel) but I wanted to find something in the same price range as the Canepa and the Arenal was right on target. In terms of drinkability and being true to the varietal, it was also spot-on. Dark. Deep flavor. I have two more bottles of this in my cellar and look forward to opening both. Great value.

Snowed in with a (not yet so) Super Tuscan

I live in the mountains. I can’t imagine living anywhere else to be honest. Beaches are not my thing. Neither are cities (though I visit them often and see their charm, especially when it comes to finding good eats.) One of the dangers, or perhaps from my perspective, one of the benefits, of mountain life is when it snows, it snows a LOT. I like snow. Actually i LOVE snow. It makes everything wonderful. I work from home most of the time so “snow days” are just another day for me. I really don’t have to go anywhere, so snow just makes the view out my windows that much better. I make a fire, sit at my desk, and get paid to bang my fingers on a computer keyboard. Might as well have a pretty view!

My favorite moments out my window are; early morning sun on the snow-covered peaks, animals browsing for food (I see elk, deer, rabbits, quail, etc out there almost every day), and best of all: the full moon illuminating the snow-covered landscape so brightly that I never need to turn on a light to see anything inside or out.

I’ve been sort of snowed in for the past few weeks. A series of storms has landed a foot of snow each on my home in the mountains. I’ve had very little need to leave the house, so I’ve just enjoyed it as much as I can. One of the ways I’ve enjoyed it is cooking nice dinners and opening wines from the cellar (which is currently hovering around 44ºF rather than its usual 55ºF.) One of the wines I had recently is this 2013 La Massa I.G.T – aka “Super Tuscan” meaning a blend of Tuscan and Bordeaux grapes. In this case the blend is mostly Sangiovese and Merlot, with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet.

It was good, but nowhere as good as the last “Super Tuscan” I tried. That one took almost five years of cellar time to blossom into something awesome. This La Massa only cost me about nineteen bucks, and I think I grabbed six bottles, so if history is my guide I should hang onto the remaining stock until around 2018 or later. I’ll consider this a mental note to do so.

Meanwhile… let it snow!

Some practical advice for holiday bubbly: Simonnet-Febvre Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Rose

Good Bubbly

I drink more bubbly than I should. For me there is no better reason to pop a cork off a sparkling wine than “hey, what a nice afternoon!” *pop!* So why wait until the holidays? I guess I’m unusual since most of the population does wait for the holidays or super-special occasions to drink some bubbly. So in the spirit of the holidays I’ll give you some practical advice and suggest a real winner choice for your coming celebrations: Simonnet-Febvre Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé. Yes, it is not true Champagne, as it comes from just south of the Champagne province in the Chablis region of Burgundy. It is also non-vintage. What you have here is a recipe for greatness at a price… a very reasonable price! You can find this one at your local wine shop for about $22-$30

The secret spice to get it over the top? Buy it from The Accidental Wine Company! They specialize in selling wines at a steep discount due to small amounts of damage, usually to the labels. Here is an example of said damage:

ouch

Yes. $17. A 20+% discount over retail. Seventeen bucks for what your friends will taste as a world-class bubbly. I bring this wine to pretty much every party or special event I attend and it meets with universal approval and acclaim. It is not overly sweet, and takes people by surprise when they first taste it. Seeing a “pink champagne” they assume it will be sickly-sweet. Instead this wine is a dry pinot noir with bubbles. It has that flinty quality of wines from Chablis, and pairs well with many types of food. Plus it makes any event a special one.

*pop!*

I buy this stuff by the case when it is available and keep it chilled in a fridge in my basement. You should too.

Surprisingly Separate Syrah: 2014 Pedal To The Metal, Santa Ynez Valley Syrah

Pedal to the Metal

This wine is outside the economic scope of this site, being a $75/bottle expense, but I thought I’d share because it caught me by surprise with how enjoyable it was to drink.

I’m not a huge fan of the Syrah (Shiraz) varietal. I rarely drink it as it seems to be a all over the map in terms of how it drinks. It can be super peppery, over-the-top bold, or more often, just sort of … “meh”.

But sometimes, very rare sometimes, a Syrah can be sublime. This is one of those times, as this is the most interesting and tasty Syrah I have ever enjoyed.

I hosted a late Thanksgiving dinner; late by four days, as that was the first time my sons could travel to my home for a family gathering due to their schedules. I chose this wine to accompany this special occasion. I kept three bottles of Pedal to the Metal Syrah in the cellar for several months with the intention of saving them specifically for a such occasions. I assumed that this 2014 wine would not really be ready to fully appreciate in late 2016, but with two more bottles I figured it would be good to taste now and try to peer into the future.

Well, I’m here to tell you the future is now. This wine had none of the tannic explosion I was prepared for… instead it was smooth and very tasty. Nothing like its name except in terms of being at the finish line long before expected or predicted. It was thoroughly enjoyed by all at the table!

Sadly for you dear reader, this wine is likely unobtainable for you right now. I was made in very limited quantities by “Tasting with Tom” host Tom Leykis earlier this year and I believe this vintage has sold out. It was available directly, and via a few retailers in California, but I imagine it is either completely sold out, or only available through some serious effort. But fear not, I have heard that another batch is in process, so keep an ear out for it on Tom’s podcast, or join his mailing list to get news about the next release.

Some Lunchtime Drinking: Cameron Hughes Lot 527 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

I’ve had a lot of life changes over the past few years. Many of them were the cause of my lack of wine-blogging, some of them were the cause of me wine-blogging again. A move from one state to another. My kids growing up, and leaving home. A serious illness. The most significant change of all however was the end of my relationship with the person you have all gotten to know as “Mrs. Barbarian.” It was a rough time… for both of us. After a few years of being apart I started dating again, and have been seeing a real fiery testa rossa, who shares my love of tasting good things.

One of those things was this bottle of Pinot Noir from Cameron Hughes. A steal at $13! I’m not usually a fan of Pinot Noir. Pinots are like Porsches, they can be awesome, or they can be awful, but they are almost always expensive. A good, cheap Pinot is about as common as a good, cheap Porsche. But this one is quite good, and indeed cheap, thanks to our negociant friend Cameron Hughes.

We enjoyed it over an evening and better yet, lunchtime the following day where we noshed on fruit, some nice cheeses, and cured meats.The wine is a classic California Pinot, with a light color and a refreshing flavor. Really quite good and Testa Rossa herself said it was a favorite. She loves Pinot Noir, so stay tuned for more reviews provided she doesn’t dump me.

My only issue with this wine was the cork, which dove into the bottle as soon as I pressed the Screwpull into it.